Tasmania

Granite the colour of salmon, weathered into domes and boulders, standing in water clear enough to read the bottom through five metres down.

Freycinet is a peninsula of it — sheltered bays on the lee side, ocean on the other, and Wineglass curving between two hills like something designed. It sits at the mild end of an island that gets progressively wilder westward, until the last thing between the coast and South America is four thousand kilometres of open water. The air here is the cleanest measured anywhere on earth.